How to Clean your Awning: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jmC6vKL4IdU
When washing the awning with beast wash and bleach mixture as per your video, should I be concerned about the run off on my RV sides. My RV is jell coat and paint combined. Should I cover the side of trailer before doing this? I have used your products for a few years and I am satisfied every time I wash my coach.
Thanks for any help.
I am glad you have been happy with our products!
You should always be concerned about soap run off on your sidewalls. I doubt any permanent damage would occur, with the exception to vinyl graphics. I don’t think you need to tarp off your rig however just be careful. I don’t recommend trying to clean the outside of a RV on a hot sunny day. Not only can the soaps get baked into your finish but cooling down a hot side wall is not good for the laminated finish used on most RVs today.
As far as the bleach/Beast Wash solution. First I would wet down your side wall so if you do drip your solution will be further diluted. Also wash your side wall, just to be safe, after you are all done.
We do this procedure every day without incident so I know you can as well!
Here’s the video for the RV Restorer: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z0h6lSEqjWU
Should a 32 oz RV Finish Restorer do a 28’ unit?
There are allot of variables in your question. Temp, humidity, absorption rate, hand or machine, these will all factor in on whether one bottle will be enough. Yes I have been able to do a 28’ unit with one bottle. On other 28’ units I have needed 2 bottles of RV Finish Restorer with Wax.
If you plan on buffing out your entire unit, I would suggest using a high speed machine, unless your rig is aluminum sided. Its a lot of work trying to get an even shine out of fiberglass and FRP when doing this job by hand.
Also, the product has wax in it so you won’t need to purchase wax. We have a kit you can purchase that has the restorer and the high speed buffer and the pad. Here is the link:
Link to Video:
Part 1: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pLy1nErYR8A
Part 2: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Exnu0jPsvhQ
I don’t have a carpet machine and I live an hour and a half from places that rent them.Is there a way to clean the carpet in my 5/W without the machine?And what product should or would I use to do that?
Have you seen our video on making your own carpet cleaning machine? In our video we show you how to use a Wet Dry vacuum. When cleaning your carpets it’s important to remove the soap. Often carpet cleaners, “extractors”, are used improperly by adding soap to the machine. The machine needs to be used to rinse and lift the soap and dirt out of the carpet. Rinsing it is important as any soap left in your carpets will attract dirt. Have you ever tried to spot clean your carpets? You see the dirt spot disappear only to re-appear days later. This is because your dirt spot is now a soap spot, soap attracts dirt!
I would recommend using our concentrate WOW. We named it that because our customers say WOW when they use it, “true story.” WOW was originally formulated as a low residue, soft scented, safe to use leather cleaner. It’s the product we use at Duratain when we need to clean, carpets, fabrics, vinyl and leather. We also use it full strength to safely remove gum from carpet.
Hope this helps,
We have a nice looking Dometic awning that is about 5 years old…. doesn’t smell so nice though. Strong moldy smell in spite of a thorough cleaning and put away absolutely dry.. with the ends covered and wrapped up tight to keep it dry. When we unrolled it on our camping trip, the mold smell knocked us out.
In the first place I can’t figure out how it got wet and now I am either going to cure the mold smell (very few small mold spots visible) or I am going to rip it off and burn it.
So, whaddya think, your BEAST WASH going to get RID of the mold and smell?
I am also in Anacortes this week and Sunday was hot and muggy! I have some tricks for you regarding your awning. Vinyl awnings sweat so keeping them dry is next to impossible. Sounds like your awning is already clean so you won’t need Beast Wash just yet. You will need to use some bleach. Dilute 10% Bleach to 90% water you can go stronger if needed. Mop it on one side of the awning, roll it up let it sit for 15 minutes. The solution should transfer to the non-treated side of the vinyl. Then open and rinse the bleach and mold off. When storing your awning, apply the bleach solution to both sides, let stand until dry, “DO NOT RINSE OFF,” Once dry, roll up your awning.
On your next camping trip you will be the only camper with a mold free, clean smelling awning, no burning necessary.
I have a new 2015 Winnebago trailer and I’m a clear freak. I have been looking for a good product for the fiberglass sides. I went to a new dealer in my area and they offered to have your crew come out and do my trailer. But the more I look I think all I need is to keep it waxed. I clean it each time I use it but the bugs are making spots on the front. I use 303 on the roof and awning but want something better on the sides. I have looked on you tube and like what I see about product but I don’t need the full deal with my new trailer. I think I can use you cleaner and wax and do this my self. What is the benefits of having your crew come to my home? I can order your product and do my self. Not to cut you out of a job but I wat it done yearly and I have time on my hands.
We don’t send crews out to wax trailers but we do have technicians that install our Duratain Coatings. Duratain includes 4 commercial strength RV specific coatings that protect and extend the life of known trouble areas on RVs (www.duratain.com). You really have to think about how you plan on using your trailer. Are you planning to keep it long term? Are you storing it inside? Will you be a road worrier or just an occasional weekend camper? It sounds like you are willing and able to do the required maintenance. You see so many RVs on the road with bad finishes and that’s because RV sidewalls need to be waxed every 3 months if kept outside. Folks just don’t want to do that much maintenance. A side benefit with Duratain is it reduces your maintenance while protecting your RV, folks really like that! Another added benefit of Duratain coatings is our 5/10 year warranty and commercial strength, which is why we have our professional tech do the installation and cannot sell it as a product that you apply yourself.
As far as products to clean and wax your Winnebago with, you will want our Beast Wash to clean and our specially formulated Wade Wax. If you are having trouble removing bug splatter order some of our Bug & Animal remover. The great thing about this product is that it is strong enough to get the bugs off but won’t strip the Wade Wax off. Be careful when selecting your cleaning/waxing products for your RV because I am not familiar with any other products (other than our own) that are specially formulated/not diluted for all the different types of plastics (FRP), gelcoats, and painted surfaces on your RV.
Even if you do decide to go with Duratain (my recommendation) the products above are still great to have on hand and all are great for use with Duratain treated RV’s.
I hope this helps with your decision. If you have any more questions about Duratain or Wade Maid products please let me know I am happy to answer them!
I have a 2012 Jayco 24′ travel trailer. Where I park it the front of the camper is always facing the sun. The front end has become faded and has lines not cracks running in it. I have tried polish on it but it leaves swirl marks and doesnt help much on the shine. I was wondering if you had any ideas on how to solve this? Also if I use your product should I stripe the old wax off first.
If your front cap is a color infused Dark Brown or Gray you can not bring back the shine. If it is any other color you will need our RV Finish Restorer with Wax along with a high speed buffer and wool pad. We sell a kit for $99. For your project you will definitely need the buffer. You just won’t be able to do this project by hand.
If you have a color infused cap (Dark Brown/Gray), they are color molting behind the finish. Once this happens the only way to solve the problem is to have the cap painted.
I hope this helps,
We have a 2008 Itasca Navion, Class C motorhome. I have discovered the gelcoat on the rear of the coach appears to have faded and has small spider web looking cracks running vertically up and down the back of the unit. I talked to the body shop at the dealer, (Lazy Days RV, Tampa, Fl), where we purchased the motorhome. I was informed the condition is called “Checking” of the Gelcoat from sun damage. They advised the gelcoat could be sanded and repainted, but no guarantee it would last more that a couple of years. They believed the damage was just aesthetic and no leaking was occurring. Will any of your products help me?
Welcome to the world of frustrating RV finishes! Or RV Finish Restorer with Wax will bring back the shine but will do nothing to help the cracks or checking. The dealer is correct that checking is caused by sun and heat. My guess is your rear panel is a FRP material and not a molded fiberglass cap. The FRP used on your rig is more of a plastic with a high gloss jell coat type finish on top. Replacing the panel is the only way to properly fix this eyesore as it will be imposable to fill in and stop the cracking.
Per your video on cleaning the awning with bleach, Will the bleach lighten the colored portion of the awning? We just purchased a one owner 1999 Damon Daybreak with A&E 8500 awning and rolled out the awning…. It is stained with brown spots from leaves, and generally dirty, cannot say if there is mold….does not look like it Thought I would ask. Thank You for a response in advance
Jim T in Darrington, WA.
Cleaning an awning can be frustrating at best. Your awning fabric is white vinyl with a portion of it colored. Diluted bleach, unless misused will not harm these areas. If you are dealing with sap the bleach will have little effect. Beast Wash will clean the dirt and bleach will remove most stains. However pitch and damp leaves that may have gotten rolled up in a stored awning for an extended time can permanently stain.
I have used Beast Wash on my trailer and my boat. The product worked really well on the boat and did remove the dirt and grime off of the trailer. But, I can’t get rid of the black streaks. Do you have any recommendations?
Your Prowler has a bad case of the streaks! This is an aluminum sided rig and the aluminum can stain if the rig is not kept waxed. With a little elbow grease I think you will be able to get most of your streaks out. First you will need to test an area with Beast Wash using it very strong I would try different ratios up to 80/20. Do not try this in the direct sun, a cool morning or a rainy day is best. You won’t damage your aluminum however you can damage your graphics Keep the rig wet and don’t let the beast wash run down the sides or dry, rinse well. You should find the ratio needed to remove the stains. You can also try a smaller test area away from the graphics by pouring some Beast Wash full strength on a rag or sponge and applying it by hand in over a streaky area. This test will let you know how badly stained your rig is. Once she is washed if you still have persistent streaks than you will have to use the RV Finish Restorer with Wax to remove the rest of the stains. After you have your Prowler looking like a tiger without stripes I would suggest keeping her waxed so you don’t have to go through this much work again.
Keep me posted and I will walk you through this.. The video really helped!!
Hi, just saw your video on YouTube and web site concerning foggy Plexiglas.
I have a vintage Spartan trailer with very hazy Plexiglas. Have you seen mostly always success rate on these older trailers? Is the Plexiglas able to come back totally clear, as when new?
Yes you can take the fog off and clean up your Plexiglas windows. We have had good success rates doing this using the machine. Regarding the windows we worked on in the video it was necessary to buff out both the outside and inside of the glass. If your windows have damage within the glass than no product will be able to bring them back to life. RV finish Restorer with Wax will remove surface contaminants, polish, and wax in one relatively easy step.