Homemade Super Soap Sucker!!
I don’t have a carpet machine and I live an hour and a half from places that rent them. Is there a way to clean the carpet in my 5/W without the machine? And what product should or would I use to do that?
Have you seen our video on making your own carpet cleaning machine? In our video we show you how to use a Wet Dry vacuum. When cleaning your carpets it’s important to remove the soap. Often carpet cleaners “extractors” are used improperly by adding soap to the machine. The machine needs to be used to rinse and lift the soap and dirt out of the carpet. Rinsing it important as any soap left in your carpets will attract dirt. Have you ever tried to spot clean your carpets? You see the dirt spot disappear only to re-appear days later. This is because your dirt spot is now a soap spot, soap attracts dirt!
I would recommend using our concentrate WOW. We named it that because our customers say WOW when they use it, “true story.” WOW was originally formulated as a low residue, soft scented, safe to use leather cleaner. It’s the product we use at Duratain when we need to clean, carpets, fabrics, vinyl and leather. We also use it full strength to safely remove gum from carpet.
Hope this helps,
We Leighton It Up – Beast Wash to the Rescue
Can you recommend an easy cleaner for my Leighton? The siding is aluminum.
Your Leighton is stained pretty badly. So I don’t think it’s going to be easy but you can clean most of it up. You will want to wash with Beast Wash. However you will need to wash the unit using the product “hot.” This means almost full strength. Be careful not to do this in the sun or let the product run down the sides as it may leave clean streaks in your blue stripes. If after you wash your rig you still have some stains. Pore Beast Wash on a damp towel and rub the areas that the streaks remain. Any streaks that won’t clean off doing this procedure are stained in the finish. So your next step will be to use our RV finish Rejuvenator with Wax.
Hope this helps!
Make it a Family Affair!! Buff that Beast!
I’ve been looking at your product videos and it looks like we might really be able to do this by ourselves at home!
We have a 2000, 28 ft., Cedar Creek 5th Wheel. It has been sitting uncovered in our Florida weather probably it’s whole life but we’ve owned it since 2005. Sorry to say we’ve never waxed it. We’ve used an inexpensive wash & wax product when we’ve washed it but that’s it. It definitely has oxidation on it, no shine and all the color spots and decals are cracked and or faded. We don’t expect to make it look new again but I would like for it to not embarrass me when we (finally) get to go camping again. I recently took our unit in to have the awnings replaced and while it was there I was going to have it washed and waxed but it would have cost us about $400.00 to have it done. THAT motivated my husband to say, “Just get the “wax” and I’ll do it. We already have a buffer (never been used as yet) with a wool pad. My son’s girlfriend has one too so I think we can make this a “family affair’ and maybe it won’t seem so overwhelming.
It looks like “The Rejuvenator” is the product we need. MY QUESTION – How many bottles do you think we will need to do our RV?
Thanks for sharing your story with us. I think two bottles of RV Finish Rejuvenator with Wax and one bottle of Beast Wash will be enough for this job. Yep, I am recommending you first give your rig a good Beast Washing because at this time you have a Dirty Dull Beast! Beast Wash will help remove surface chalk, mold and other contaminants making your buffing job easier. I want you to be sure your buffers are high speed and not orbital. I get allot of calls from upset customers who are trying to use the wrong equipment when buffing out their rigs with our product. I also get folks arguing the use of a modern foam pad. I would like to find the foam pad salesman so I can hire him for my team as he has everybody thinking it’s a magical product! I’m glad you seem to have the proper pads and equipment for this job. Now, when working with our RV Finish Rejuvenator with Wax, don’t rush. Temperature and humidity will determine how long you work with the product in the area you are buffing. Work a 3×4 area, buff until the product is gone and you have a smooth and shiny surface. If your pad gets gummed up run a screw driver or spur over your pad to clean it. You can also machine wash the wool pads. Remember you want the side wall wet with product and your pad dry. With practice you will get this technique down and find this to be a relatively easy job.
Some last tips. I would not buff out your vinyl stripes. I would tape the edges off so you don’t both damage the vinyl and eliminate color bleeding, pulling color from the vinyl and staining the sidewall. When you are all done and shiny, don’t wash with soap! Yep, stay away from soaps, even ours as you will now have a carnauba finish! Carnauba is a plant wax, wax from a Brazilian palm leaf. Its great in your application because it sits on top. Your finish is just too porous for other waxes. The down side is soaps will remove this wax. So, simply wash with cold water alone! To remove bugs look into our Bug and Animal Remover. This product will not remove the wax..
Whoa WinnebagGO WAX STAT!!!
Recently purchased a new 2015 Winnebago Minnie Winnie 31KP. So we have auto paint, fiberglass panels and vinyl graphics. The owners manual recommends washing with water and baby shampoo. The manual then proceeds to recommend auto wax compatible with painted and gel coated fiberglass…so far so good. BUT then on the graphics says no wax over the graphics. Seems odd Winnebago won’t offer a list of products for safe use.Your videos indicate we can use your product over all of our surfaces, extremely worried about the graphics, which certainly would be nice! So confused, certainly don’t want to damage our new Class C. What products would your recommend and are your products warrantied against causing finish damage?
Thanks much, we have always taken care of our vehicles so not knowing what I can wash, clean and wax is driving me nuts.
In today’s world manufactures are worried about giving out advice that may come back and bite them. Winnebago’s suggestions will probably work fine and get you through the warranty period. However after your first year Baby Shampoo will not be strong enough to clean any road or environmental contaminates off your rig, but it will smell nice! As far as waxing, I would wax all the surfaces mentioned in your email with Wade Wax. I would not wax your vinyl graphics if they are a satin finish as this will stain them. However, if your graphics are shiny, glossy and smooth I would definitely wax them. Your rig should be waxed every 3 months from the time it hit the dealership’s lot.. One bottle of Wade Wax will last you a long time if properly used. Unfortunately we cannot warranty against finish damage as we have no control over how a customer uses our products.
My guess is your rig has never been waxed, so I would strongly recommend getting out and getting WAXED!
Rub’A Dub Dub How Often Does My Duratained Beast Need A Scrub?
What do you recommend I use to wash my Duratain coated RV? And how often?
That is an excellent question! When we started Duratain Protective coatings we quickly realized that there wasn’t a line of cleaning/maintenance products out there that were designed specifically for the special surfaces (and coatings) on an RV. They have some that claim they are but when you really read the details it can be used on cars and boats and a whole host of other things but none that say specifically clean/maintain all thematerials found on RV’s. So I created some. I would recommend using our Beast Wash for washing your coach and to wash it as needed. The great thing about our Beast Wash is that you can make it as strong or a light as you want. Because it is professional strength it’s going to give you that professional clean. Please stay away from Wash & Wax products because the silicone in the wash will build up over time on your sidewalls creating a sticky film that attracts dirt. If you find that you have a lot of bug buildup on the front of your coach you can use our Bug and Animal Remover. Easily melts away those subornmesses.
In the end I guess the simple answer is wash when your RV is dirty!
Hope this helps!
The Roof.. The Roof.. The Roof is….. Moldy??
Thank you for the how to. I did watch the video and my friend came and cleaned my carpet so I didn’t have to do it, thankfully.
I have another question about the EPDM roof that is on my 5/W. I’ve attached pictures and I want to know if your product will get off the spots left by the mold. I already washed it and used bleach water 1/10 concentration and it got the roof pretty clean, but not the parts in the pictures.
Will your produce remove these spots?
Beast Wash is what you will want to use to clean up your roof. You can mix bleach with Beast Wash if you still have some mold. However I think this may be a buildup of sticky tree sap. To clean this up you will probably need to use Beast Wash with a power Washer. Remember to let your soaps do their job. You do this by letting the product dwell on the surface. Do not use any solvent based cleaners like tar remover. Solvents are bad for any membrane material and should only be used by professionals. Watch our video on power washing. The roof I am cleaning was fiberglass but the power washing method is the same.
I hope this helps,
Introducing Vinyl G and the Rejuventor’s New Hit – Ohhh Be Be Be Gone Oxidation
Will rejuvenator harm my vinyl graphics? I own a 2010 Heartland and I want to get rid of the oxidation.
Our RV finish rejuvenator with wax will not harm vinyl graphics on its own. However if you try buffing them with a machine you can burn through them. So when machine buffing it’s a good idea to tape off the edge of the vinyl with masking tape, I like the blue kind. This way if you do get a little hot, and burn something it will be the masking tape and not the vinyl graphic. This will also stop the color of the graphic from bleeding into the color of your sidewalls. If your graphics are bad than there is not much you can do to polish them out and have it last for any length of time.
Hope this helps!
Please Don’t Let it Fade Away!!
I have a 2014 Jayco White Hawk camper and on the front of the camper the fiberglass is oxidizing. It seems on the Jayco forum that is seems to be a problem with the clear coat not being correct. Jayco is willing to repaint the front under warranty, but I really do not want to repaint the front since the molding will not be removed and you will see the paint line. So my question is will you “The Rejuvenator” work and restore the finish back to my camper?
Thank you for your time to read my email.
You most certainly want to take Jayco up on the paint offer! You have a color infused FRP cap. It will buff out and look nice for about a week, after that it will start bleeding. Don’t be mad at Jayco, they did not make the material but they are standing behind it. Many manufactures are NOT.. Painting is the only and best fix for this problem. I am sure whoever you have do the work will do a good job. If not, that’s your opportunity to play quality control.. Let the new paint cure for thirty to sixty days, then purchase a bottle of our Wade Wax, you need to keep your rig waxed. So run don’t walk and get this painted….
26 Footer.. A Truck Load of Wade Wax… Wade Stop Dreaming!!
How many bottles of Wade Wax would I need to order to put the shine on a 26 foot fifth wheel? I have washed and removed the oxidation.
I think you will need a tanker truck load! Now you will only use about 6 OZ of Wade Wax but I don’t make any money just selling a little bottle of the stuff! Just think about it, you will be the envy of the campground. Your shiny 26’ fifth wheel parked next to a tanker truck full of Wade Wax, heck, I will even signee the tanker truck for you!! Going to a baseball game costs more than a bottle of Wade Wax.. What good is a signed baseball? It just collects dust! But a signed tanker truck full of Wade Wax… that’s rare, my wife won’t even let me have one!
Ok, Ok, sorry for that. If your rig is in good condition all you will need is one 16oz bottle. However if your finish is not in good shape Wade Wax will want to soak into your side wall looking for a finish to stick to. So, it will be easy to use if your finish is in good shape and hard to use if your finish is missing or in bad shape.
Clean that Awning, Shake those Side Wall Willies!!
How to Clean your Awning: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jmC6vKL4IdU
When washing the awning with beast wash and bleach mixture as per your video, should I be concerned about the run off on my RV sides. My RV is jell coat and paint combined. Should I cover the side of trailer before doing this? I have used your products for a few years and I am satisfied every time I wash my coach.
Thanks for any help.
I am glad you have been happy with our products!
You should always be concerned about soap run off on your sidewalls. I doubt any permanent damage would occur, with the exception to vinyl graphics. I don’t think you need to tarp off your rig however just be careful. I don’t recommend trying to clean the outside of a RV on a hot sunny day. Not only can the soaps get baked into your finish but cooling down a hot side wall is not good for the laminated finish used on most RVs today.
As far as the bleach/Beast Wash solution. First I would wet down your side wall so if you do drip your solution will be further diluted. Also wash your side wall, just to be safe, after you are all done.
We do this procedure every day without incident so I know you can as well!